I was taken aback. Of course, Mama
and her sisters were already in their seventies and eighties, but there had been
no indication at all that there was anything wrong with Yi-Poh Sa-Yi. I was at
a loss as to what to do, and said a short prayer about it. Then I recalled a
similar incident in one of Elizabeth Gaskell's novels, "Wives and
Daughters", which I had just read.
"Mama," I said,
"could you please change and get ready? Aunty is coming to get you as
Yi-Poh Sa-Yi is not feeling well."
Instantly, I could see a shadow of
worry on my grandmother's face. I could see that she was preparing herself for
the worst. This was just as well, because when Yi-Poh Sa-Yi's daughter arrived,
grief was clearly written on her face. Mama reached out to console her, and
they all drove off.
Later, I told my mum what I had said
to Mama, and she was relieved that I had found a way of preparing Mama for the
sad news.
Both Mama and Yi-Poh Sa-Yi used to
prepare achar-achar. This is the Peranakan version of pickles. It consists of
vegetables such as cucumber, carrot, cauliflower and green chillies pickled with
salt and vinegar. However, unlike the Chinese version, they are bathed in a golden-brown
gravy, which contains ground peanuts, among other ingredients. Also, the green
chillies are stuffed with finely shredded, incredibly sour strands of unripe
papaya.
Making achar-achar takes time, as
the vegetables have to be washed, cut up, squeezed and then sun-dried for a day
or so. However, assuming that the entire process has been rigorously carried
out, the jars of pickles can be kept for a few months.
We love eating this with char kway
teow, our beef balls or any other dish with which pickles would be a good
accompaniment.
Mama's version was slightly
different from Yi-Poh Sa-Yi's in terms of some ingredients used. I think this
made the achar uniquely their recipes, since each sister must have modified
what was passed down to her from her mother to suit her own purposes and
tastes.
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